- #Jeep grand cherokee 2010 relay 50a b install#
- #Jeep grand cherokee 2010 relay 50a b driver#
- #Jeep grand cherokee 2010 relay 50a b manual#
When a vehicle will not be used for 20 days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Power Distribution Center (PDC) This will reduce battery discharging. The 25 milliamperes are needed to supply Powertrain Control Module (PCM) memory, digital clock memory, and electronically tuned radio memory.Ī vehicle that has not been operated for approximately 20 days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from 5 to 25 milliamperes (0.005 - 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) refers to power being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position.
#Jeep grand cherokee 2010 relay 50a b manual#
Attached a page from the WJ manual with the normal IOD currents from several components : The only thing is to recharge as soon as possible an empty battery, otherwise a chemical reaction between the plates and the liquid will damage the plates and reduce the capacity of the battery. Eventhough the current draw can deplete the energy of your battery, it should not kill it. Here below follows a procedure which i found on internet to investigate the cause of the exessive draw (they mention 0.025 mA as a max, but the WJ manual calls for 0.035 mA). The low current is caused by the different memory functions of PCM, TCM, clock and some other stuff. The so called IOD (ignition off draw) current should normally not be more then 35 mA or 0.035 A. Thanks so much for anything anyone can recommend! Can anyone recommend a plan of action to see what's going on? I have 'fear' of the unknown. Is this enough to kill my new batt? I have little $ and don't want to kill a brand new batt. I clamped my black test lead to the batt terminal stud and touched the red to the disconnected batt lead.6 to. method was disconnecting negative lead, turning off interior lights (using the dimmer roller on blinker stick only), all fuses and relays in-place. Not sure what's drawing half an Amp but this was after the car was recently run.
My reading on the meter, static, with all manner of radio removed (all harness removed from head unit, OEM amp, etx) is now the same as when it is all plugged-in. Recharged, dies again within a day and sat dead for a week = new batt.
#Jeep grand cherokee 2010 relay 50a b install#
Batt died overnight after install on head unit. No real issues prior, hence learning much now. This was a newer batt (1 year?), Interstate Brand. Let's put the tranny issues aside as I am mostly concerned with the batt situation right meow. The fact that its ALL the JB fuses bothers me a bit, it makes me think there may be a BCM concern with the interior being told to say alive so all the fuses are active instead of just one failing component in one circuit.
I would try my door cycle suggestion first, make sure when you do the door cycle you the battery cable touching the battery post so ast to not draw excessive current through your meter, just make sure when you disconnect the battery cable from the post you never break the circuit through the meter. JB fuses are Junction block fuses that feed fuses in the interior junction block, go to the interior and start pulling individual fuses.
#Jeep grand cherokee 2010 relay 50a b driver#
I have made it a practice every IOD I deal with to open and shut the driver door following a battery disconnect, alot of old timers tell me I dont need to but that car is a prime example, if you disconnected the battery then just hooked up your meter it didnt like to go to sleep, I am sure if you gave it enough time it may have but im talking like 15 minutes I have had my meter on it with it not going to sleep.
I grabbed the car and brought it up, hooked my meter up and OPENED AND SHUT THE DRIVER DOOR and within 2 minutes the car was asleep with LITTLE draw, all the draw about 30mA was from the dvd player in the roof and his aftermarket cd player but still perfectly healthy IOD. after a short time of poking around the draw went away and for 3 days I couldnt get it to come back, let the car sit over the weekend, it started right up when I came in on tuesday so it was shipped as "not repaired, just cannot get it to act up right now, you will likely be back" he came back PISSED like 2 days later because it was "very clearly still drawing" (he had his meter in hand and wanted to show the writer on the drive). I had a jeep a while back that had an IOD, I put my meter on it and saw a draw (cannot remember how much, but around 1 amp), the thing was loaded with a large aftermarket stereo, alarm, headliner dvd player.
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